What is the difference between Jamdani of Bangladesh and Uppada Jamdani of India? The difference lies in the history, weaving pattern and the region defined as a GI product.
Background: Historical and Technical
Jamdana of Bangladesh is internationally recognised as a centuries-old heritage tradition that is closely associated with the production of fine muslin in the past in the Dhaka region. The Jamdani weaving tradition was included in UNESCO’s Representative List of the Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity in 2013. In contrast, Uppada Jamdani originates from the village of Uppada in the Indian state of Andhra Pradesh. It is said that this tradition was adopted after the local weavers learnt the technique from Bangladesh. They initially wove plain sarees, before adapting the style to their own methods.
Differences in the mode of production
The two traditions make use of fundamentally different production methods and equipment.
Looms: Traditional Bangladeshi Jamdani is woven on sophisticated, hand-operated pit looms, which give the fabric its unique texture and transparency. Jamdani is usually on jacquard looms, and they can control the weaving process differently.
Weaving Style: Bangladeshi Jamdani’s famous technique is the supplementary weft, which produces floating motifs often referred to as embroidery on the loom. Uppada Jamdani is often described as possessing characteristics closer to those of tapestry work, and is a distinct adaptation of the original Jamdani method.
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Geographical Indication Status
Both products are classified as homonymous Geographical Indications, as they both use the term “Jamdani” in their registered titles.
In 2010, India got the GI registration for Uppada Jamdani, and in 2016, Bangladesh got the GI registration for Jamdani. The continued use of the term “Jamdani” in both has spurred ongoing debates on the protection of the traditional craft and the possibility of consumer confusion between the original heritage technique and the regionally adapted variant.
